Front Crossmember Repair

1977 Spitfire 1500

By: Victor Michael &
Tech-Weenie Bill "Whizmo" Pyle

When Rachael and I purchased this Spitfire over a year ago, the seller pointed out the damage to the front end. He probably figured we would notice it anyway as we looked the car over. The lack of a front bumper was obvious that there was a pretty big problem up there?

Outside of being I suppose a minor problem with the law, it was only a cosmetic eyesore and embarrassment. Well, for now, I’ve run out of things to do on my car. Why not buy a parts car? I need a bonnet anyway. The front end would be a problem with the bonnet as well though, so I began to examine the front cross-member of the parts car with the intent of figuring out how to carry out the repair. Since the bonnet came out of those very hinge boxes, it would fit without a problem. Transplant the whole thing!

I had asked around about how to do this job. Some had said replace the whole chassis, others said chop the main chassis beams and butt weld. I was convinced that since I’m so good at taking things apart, I could remove the front cross-member from both cars and weld it into place. That was my plan.

Off to Home Depot to buy some 4-½" cut-off wheels for my drill along with the adapter that would allow me to use wheels intended for a grinder on a drill. This worked fine for awhile. Besides the drill being too slow and chewing up the cut-off wheels, it was difficult to cut without slipping here and there. It was also impossible to into the area between the "fork" at the front of the main beams. I gave up.

I broke down and purchased a DeWalt 4-½" right angle grinder. This was a very good investment. I still had the problem of getting in between the forks. I stopped to re-evaluate the situation and decided that I wouldn’t need the rest of chassis, at least not the front of the main beams. My solution was to cut the main beams off just behind the cross-member. That way I could at least get the assembly on the bench to remove the remaining welds. It worked especially well and since I was now using my new grinder, it cut like butter. It’s amazing what 10,000 RPM and a small circle of "whatever" can do to metal.

Now I have this nice, clean (and British Racing Green, by the way) cross-member in my garage. Now what? I have no welding equipment and if I did, I wouldn’t know how to use it. I also didn’t know where to begin looking for a reputable welder. Nor did I care to be taken advantage of by one. Enter Bill Pyle. During our ISOA Camping trip and visit to Blackhawk recently, I ran into Bill and Sheri cruising around the infield at the raceway on their Cushmans with their granddaughter. We began to talk about (what else) my project. Bill graciously offered to help me with the welding.

We each had things to take care of before we had time to tackle this, but eventually did. I visited Bill and Sheri’s place on a recent Sunday morning with the BRG cross-member as my silent passenger and the handy-dandy grinder in the boot.

It was quick work, actually. I was surprised. We began disassembling the front end. First, the bonnet prop was remove at the bonnet. Then the four adjusting bolts from the mangled hinge boxes came out. Now we lifted the bonnet from the chassis – forget something? – yep. We rested the bonnet back loosely into the hinge boxes. Bill held the bonnet up while I unplugged the three wires from the headlights. Whoops.

Now our work area is even more comfortable, if that’s possible in the already unobstructed engine compartment. Time to remove the grill, which is very easily done by removing one screw. The front quarter valances, radiator bottle and spoiler all come off.

The almighty Sawz-All is used now. No whimpy grinders with cut-off wheels. The Sawz-All made easy work of cutting off the bent up cross-member. Cuts along the edges of the main chassis beam, straight through the cross-member left five chunks of useless metal in a pile. The remnants that remained at the caps of the main beams were cut with a slit and peeled back with a chisel, much like you would treat a crab leg. What couldn’t be wiggled off was cut again with the Sawz-All. To finish the preparation of the chassis for the welding, all that need to be done was grind off the old welds and brighten up the metal on the tops and bottoms of the main beams.

It was quite easy to place the donor part onto the chassis and feel confident it was going to line up. It had the old weld marks (and some cut marks, too) from its previous home. We slipped it over the chassis and tapped it into place. To be absolutely sure it would line up, we measured from the outer end of the cross-member to the outer edge of the main beams to center it left-to-right. To position it properly front to back, we measured to the edge of the sill beneath the windshield from an edge on the hinge box on both left and right sides. Bill then slapped a couple of tack-welds on and we sized up the bonnet in the new hinge boxes. Got it first try!

All I can say here is, Bill worked his magic with the ARC welder. I learned a few things, but I’m not going to rush out and buy a welder! When he was finished, we cleaned up with a grinder, wire brush and some primer to cover up the bare metal. It wasn’t long before we had everything back on and my Spitfire had a nose job!

At least now the front bumper fit and it’s installed with all the proper hardware and over-riders. Rachael and I tackled this as soon I got home from the Pyle’s. It looks normal (again? I’ve never seen this car look normal.) As I said, the bonnet still needs replacement, but that’s going to be done when I prep the body for paint.

Now pictures don’t lie, but they don’t always tell the whole story! I did actually do a lot of work, ask Bill. It might appear as if I made him do it all, but that isn’t so, is it Bill? Uhhhh, Bill?!

Also, consider this a testimonial of the benefits of membership and a special thanks to Bill and Sheri!